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Oval The oval is seen most frequently cut in the standard 58 facet brilliant pattern but can have a varying number of pavilion main facets ranging from 4, 6, or 8. Look for even well rounded ends with a full body having an optimal length to width ratio of 1.33 - 1.66. Ovals provide a bigger surface area than a round with the same carat weight and therefore are an excellent option for shoppers looking for the brilliance of the round but a bigger size for their money.
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Princess The Princess cut is called a square or rectangular modified brilliant in GIA grading reports. It is the most popular fancy shaped diamond. Its beautiful brilliance and unique cut makes it a favorite for engagement rings. It may have either 50 facets, 21 crown, 4 girdle, 25 pavilion, or 58 facets, 21 crown, 4 girdle, 33 pavilion, depending on how the pavilion is cut. This cut is most frequently a square shape where the length to width ratio is 1.0 to 1.1. The princess cut tends to be the smallest of the shapes for the same carat weight since the cut is basically an upside down pyramid with most of the carat weight in the pavilion or bottom of the stone.
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Emerald The emerald cut is not a brilliant cut, It’s called a step cut. Step cuts are comprised of larger facets which act like mirrors. The emerald cut has 58 facets, 25 crown, 8 girdle, and 25 pavilion. Because of the angle, size and shape of the facets, this cut shows less brilliance and fire (dispersion) than other brilliant cut diamonds. However, the emerald cut stone reveals a classic beauty and elegance not seen in other cuts. Because of the open and large facets, we recommend a higher color and clarity than you might consider for a brilliant cut stone because they are more likely o become visible at lower grades. The classic emerald has a length to width ratio or 1.50, the recent trend is toward the more square shape.
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Pear The pear shape usually has the 58 facet brilliant pattern, but can be cut with different numbers of pavilion main of 8,7,6, or 4 facets. In a pear, look for a well shaped head and even shoulders with the length to width ratio of 1.50 - 1.75. Pear shaped diamonds work great for pendants and drop earrings.
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Heart The heart shape is a brilliant cut, which can be modified so that the number of pavilion mains may be 6, 7, or 8. It is important to look for a perfectly symmetrical appearance where the lobes, top arches, are of even height and breadth and the overall shape pleasing to the eye. The length to width ratio should ideally be 0.98 - 1.02.
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Marquise The marquise is usually cut as an adaptation of 58 facet standard brilliant, 33 crown and 25 pavilion, the same as the round brilliant. However, the pavilion can be cut with 4, 6, or 8 pavilion main facets. The crown cut is sometimes modified in the marquise to form what is called a “French Tip,” where the bezel facet at the point of the stone is eliminated. The length to width ratio should be in the 1.75 - 2.25 range. Marquise diamonds frequently display a bow tie, so try to to find a stone in which this is minimal or absent. The marquise has a very big surface area for the carat weight so is an excellent option if you want a big, long look for less money.
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